Obtainig a quarter inch seam allowence Part 1

Obtaining the Quarter Inch Seam

By Dee Angus

Quilting patterns are generally drafted to include ¼ in. seam allowance unless otherwise stated in the cutting/sewing instructions. So, how does one go about getting that seam allowance and keeping it consistently accurate? Why is it so important, anyway? In writing this column, I found enough methods to achieve a ¼ in. seam that I will split the information into two sections in order to try to do the subject justice. Read on, for Part I and stay with the newsletter for the continuation. Theresa and I hope that you find the topic useful.

There are many ways to get that perfect ¼ inch seam in your piecing. Some require things you already have on hand. Others may involve “attachments” that are available from your quilt shop, sewing machine dealer, catalogs, and/or internet sources. We will start the discussion by exploring what your own machine has to offer.

Choose the presser foot that your machine recommends for piecing. (Yes, this means one must actually read the sewing machine manual. There is a wealth of information there.)

Does the machine have a “quarter inch foot”? This foot will have a metal or plastic guide that is attached to the right hand edge of the foot.

1. Mount this foot onto the machine; lower the needle gently into the throat plate.

2. Now, placing a small ruler or seam gauge just touching the needle shaft, lower the presser foot and make note of the measurement where that right edge of the foot comes in contact with the ruler. It should measure ¼ in. We will test this later.

3. Generally, one sews with the needle in the center position with a quarter inch foot on the machine.

4. If there is not a specifically named ¼ in. available for your machine, what foot does the manufacturer recommend for this task? Almostany regular presser foot can be used to achieve the accurate seam allowance.

Is the opening your presser foot where the machine needle enters the throat plate a round hole or a wider oval or slot?

1. A round hole in the throat plate will not allow for moving the needle position from center. Some machines cannot have the needle position adjusted but you can still get an accurate seam.

2. Many machines have both a single-hole throat plate and a wide slotted throat plate. I will tell you how to mark the bed of your machine for an accurate measurement a bit farther on in this article) 3.Throat plates that have the wider slot allow for moving the needle to the right of center.

4. Measure what the seam allowance is with the needle in the center position and then move the needle to the right until you get the ¼ in. See above for the instructions on how to measure. Does your presser foot have a ¼ in marking on it? Many do these days. Some will have a mark along the right hand edge along which to guide the cut edge of the fabrics. Some may have a mark on the inside edge of the right toe to indicate when you have reached a quarter inch from the end of a stitching line. Look in the manual. It will tell you what all those marks represent.. Test the marks for accuracy.

If you don’t have a quarter inch foot, if there are no markings on the foot or the bed of the machine to help guide you:

1. Lower the sewing machine needle into the throat plate and find where the ¼ in. needs to be.

2. Mark this area of the throat plate with moleskin, a magnetic seam guide (non-computerized machines only), a short stack of small Post-It notes papers, blue painter’s masking tape, permanent marker- - - anything that you can use to guide the cut edges of the fabric along. Some machines have a screw-on seam guide.

Now, test your seam allowance:

     1. Cut three strips of fabric 1 ½ in. wide by about 4 in. long. Accuracy counts here. Cut carefully.
     2. Sew them together on the long edges.
     3. Set the seam and then press the seams to one side.
     4. Measure the width of the center strip. It should measure 1 in.
     5. If not, cut more strips and try again.

Once you begin sewing a project, it is best to continue sewing on the same machine all the way through at least the piecing. Different machines have different settings, markings, etc. and may cause just enough variation to make give you different sizes of blocks. We often dismiss a thread’s width difference in measurement as insignificant, but if you want an idea of what a tremendous impact that thread has when repeated many times, lay several lengths down side by side and see that it will not take many threads to change your block size.

I asked earlier why the accuracy is so important. Here are a few reasons to practice this skill;

Participation in block exchanges will require a finished block to be a specific size in order to be joined in a quilt top with blocks made by other quilters.

Some patterns have numerous pieces: the more seams, the more chance for altering the finished block size with the use of varying seam widths.

Accuracy will help you join your blocks’ match points with more ease.

Your overall satisfaction with your effort will be rewarded in the end-it is hard to get excited about finishing a quilt top that is not “square” and does not lie

A word about masking tapes: Regular masking tape is much tackier than blue painters’ masking tape. I found that residue from regular tape transferred to my fabric and to my machine bed-especially if I left the tape in place for several days while I pieced my top. Blue tape does not release its sticky stuff as easily-after all; it is designed to be pulled off walls without removing paint or finishes. However, if exposed to heat or direct sunlight, it can cause problems, as can the regular masking tape. Bottom line here: remove the tape at the end of the session.

Next time, I will offer information about some of the attachments that are out there for you to try. Until then, “Quilt ‘Til You Wilt”! Continue to Part II of article

D. Angus, February 2, 2005
Obtaining the Quarter Inch Seam-Part I
For Easy Quilt Kits Bee Line Newsletter.
I thought it would be nice to end with a little info about the author. Here are some thoughts Dee shared with me.

My regular job is that of a Director of Nursing for a 80 doctor multi-specialty medical group. I have been a nurse for nearly 40 years- the last 22 as an RN, before that as an LVN who was frustrated by legal restrictions on what I could and could not do. I do training of new employees and existing, write policies and procedures, coordinate externship programs for numerous schools (technical and colleges) in our area, etc., etc. Once in a while, I even get to take care of patients!! I want to retire from nursing before I am 62. Never wanted to be in management, but always got pushed, pulled and prodded in that direction, so it was supposed to happen. I want time for my grandchildren and daughters, hubby, garden - you know.

I taught myself to sew (garments, home dec, crafts), crotchet and embroider when I was 18. Started quilting in the 70's. Quilting for others came in 1990's , the longarm business in 2000 and teaching quilt-making came naturally. The needle-arts have always soothed me and fed my soul. Passing anything I know along to others does the same. I find that I am one of those people who does not mind finishing something someone else started----usually, anyway.